DIY Basic Kit
Polyurethane Injection

This very basic bundled package is designed for the handy home owner or home builder who needs to seal up a single foundation crack. It can also be used in industrial and commercial sites for spot repairs.

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The user will require these materials to complete the project properly.

• Purchase the DIY Basic Kit which contains (1) Liter of Leak-Proof FLEX-LV or Leak-Proof FLEX polyurethane injection grout with Leak-Proof activator and 30 (3/8") Nylon Packers.
• Go to your local hardware store and get two (2) standard grease guns and two (2) flexible whips. These types of grease guns provide a small amount per stroke, but produce very high pressures (up to 10,000 psi). This is not optimal, but if you keep from over pressurizing the port (no more than 1,500 psi) and can pump long enough, you should be able to fill the crack at that point, for each port. The grease couplers should be the variety that use a rubber seal to seal against the grease nipple of the packers. The ones with metal cups will leak.
• Again at the hardware store, get a tub of hydraulic cement to seal up the surface of the crack. You can't afford to let the Polyurethane Grout run out of the crack before it cures because of the limited amount you are purchasing! You can use anything you like to temporarily seal up the crack, just try to make it look presentable for afterwards when you show off your handy-work. You can also use the Leak-Proof FLEX-LV its self to seal the crack prior to injection. Put a bit in a plastic cup with a drop of activator and a couple drops of water. Mix and squeege into the crack as it foams using a rubber glove. It will be ready in about 15-20 minutes for injection.
• You will also require a 3/8" hammer drill bit to make your injection holes. I recommend an SDS-Plus hammer drill and a 12" bit. Tape the bit for precise depth. Sometimes this is hard to find. Check your contractor rental stores.
• You need to find something to flush out the drill holes with plenty of water. The dust produced by the drilling will impede the injection, so they must be completely flushed out before the packers are inserted.

This kit should seal about 8 feet of normally cracked concrete (shrinkage cracks), depending on thickness and width of the cracks. Additional injection grout can be purchased separately for bigger jobs or wide cracks.

This kit comes complete with:

• 1 Liter (approx. 1 quart) of Leak-Proof Resin single component polyurethane injection grout. Activator is required with this product and included. Mix ratio is 1%-10% activator to Resin. 1% give a slow cream time, while 10% is the fastest cream time.
  (Cracks can first be injected or flushed out with water to get the polyurethane to react quickly.)
• 30 - 3/8" Hammer-in plastic packers for professional injection results.

Notes:

Follow the injection guidelines found in the Document Library section and you should be able to seal up a single crack. If you want to try it on your own and don't want to spend any additional money, this is the kit for you.

The use of these packers has become the standard in the Canadian injection community because they can be installed quickly, are more affordable than metal packers, and can be used in virtually 90% of the applications that grouters are asked to inject. (Projects encountering poor grade concrete should switch our Metal Mechanical Packers to assure a safe injection.) It is recommended that the technician always use the packers in clean drill holes that have been flushed fully with water to remove drilling dust.
Hint #1: Keep packers warm (room temp) prior to use. The zerk will be much easier to install into the packer.
Hint #2: Apply a small amount of the polyurethane injection resin to the outer surface just prior to inserting the packer in the drill hole and hammering it in. The grout will set in a very short time providing an excellent seal. Packers can always be used without the "coat" method.
Hint #3: When injecting tight cracks, we have found high success rates by drilling straight into the crack to a depth of 2/3 the thickness of the wall (always measure and tape your drill bit for depth). High pressures can be maintained with virtually no spalding blow-outs (as opposed to angle drilling) and excellent grout penetration. Space the packers every 2.5 - 3 inches and a depth of 5 inches for an 8 inch thick residential wall. Use a low viscosity resin to assure 100% penetration.
Technically speaking, the straight in drilling technique increases the surface area of possible grout penetration into the crack, within the wall. When angle drilling, you can expect grout penetration to occur at the point the drill hole intersects the crack. The exposed injectable surface area is just slightly more than the diameter of the drill bit used. Let's say a 3/8" drill bit produces a 1 ^3/16" (d=3.14 x r) of penetration point per drill hole. However, the straight in method will create a 10 3/8" penetration point in a 5" deep hole. This is almost a 900% increase in usable penetration point. When it is possible to use this method with the correct grout selection, you can lower pressures and achieve superior results in a shorter time. The inexpensive plastic packer won't cost you much for the extra packers used up by this process.

Hint #4: You can cut the the packers off with a rounded chisel as required. Clean divots can be filled with non-shrink grout or epoxy gel and dressed with a grinder. I would wait a couple of days to do this so the grout has time to cut out.

Where possible, always flood test your work to ensure the crack is completely sealed.

We always recommend that you hire a professional company to complete this type of repair, so we make no guarantee that your work will provide the results you are looking for.