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 1 
 on: February 21, 2012, 11:48:42 AM 
Started by RmS - Last post by RmS
Thanks Rod, just to clarify, this Garage has a Basement under neath it, so really the joint I'm speaking about is actually at the Ceiling, this is where the concrete slab, is the Basement Ceiling  Roll Eyes
Bob 

 2 
 on: February 21, 2012, 11:31:21 AM 
Started by RmS - Last post by Rod Johnson
Anytime water is coming up through a joint or crack, there must be a drainage system installed under the floor. It will not be possible to "seal" the water out with any type a product.

 3 
 on: February 15, 2012, 03:23:13 PM 
Started by RmS - Last post by RmS
Looked at a job today that has an open space under the Garage. They have water coming in where the Garage floor slab meets the Poured Concrete Wall. There is a fairly wide opening along that joint, would say around 3/8 - 1/2" gap. Owner is planing to "Fill" that space with Hydraulic Cement. Would you have a better product to use on an application like this?
Thanks!

Bob

 4 
 on: January 07, 2011, 06:49:44 AM 
Started by pepsi_fender - Last post by pepsi_fender
Question:  I have seen, on various how to's, different ways to address the wall for finishing.  What Im trying to wrap my mind around is moisture barrier and vapour barrier use.  I see that you can us the platon membrane up the wall.  Does that only go to grade, and there for acts just as a 6 mil moisture barrier, that one would install in a basic basement.  Or does it go right up to underside of floor and is a closed system?  It also says on your site that if you use the membrane up the wall, that there needs not be a warm side vapour barrier, but just a tight air barrier.  Is that to combate a "double vapour barrier"Huh  What would happen if you had a warm side vapour barrier aswell??


 5 
 on: March 31, 2010, 03:04:16 PM 
Started by Karl_K - Last post by Karl_K
Hello Rod,

this is to you or anyone else. I have a crack on my front porch that I'm not sure how to repair or who to call.
It's near the stairs and starts where the column meets the porch and extends both sides and down. Essentially, if left it will drop a huge chunk off the edge. Any advice. If you'd like to see pictures, just let me know how to attach them.

Karl Kennedy

 6 
 on: March 06, 2010, 01:15:23 PM 
Started by nov255 - Last post by nov255
I want to connect my interior weeping tile directly to the city sewer which is permitted in my area (medicine hat Alberta Canada). I am having difficulty finding out the best method of doing this. What connections are needed and the best method of installation. My idea is to install a back water valve at the footing followed by a 4 way connection. Then connect back water valves to each outlet followed by the weeping tile. At the last outlet i would like to install another back water valve and then the main sewer clean out. Are there adapters to connect the weeping tile ( which is corrugated) to the back water valve or are there special weeping tile back water valves?

Th's for the info.

Gaetan

 7 
 on: February 20, 2010, 09:58:35 PM 
Started by lpm - Last post by lpm
We are just finishing renovating the basement in my mom's house when I discovered water coming in a corner and along the wall up to the new bathroom in the basement.  There was a dam of water on the outside.  I am wondering if the weeping tile are gone.  How can your system work if my basement has just been redone -- I don't want to spend a whole lot of money having to redo the drywall again!

 8 
 on: February 03, 2010, 06:50:15 PM 
Started by janjoie - Last post by janjoie
Hi! It's great to have found this forum!!
My partner and I have just moved into this house 3 months ago.  After every rain since then,  we would find water on the floors of our basement.  Being unfinished,  we simply thought water seeped through the boarded-up windows.  With the heavy rains of last week, though,  we saw that water was actually pouring in from some parts of the wall, a foot from the floor. Now the basement floor has obviously been lowered by the previous owners ,and, from the outside,  the concrete on the side where water pours in has crumbled after the extreme cold we've had here in Toronto the past two weeks or so.  
I would like to know if this should be fixed externally or from within?  I understand there's both ways but which would be more economical in the long run?  Also, would anyone know what an approximate amount would for this?  
Your response would be greatly appreciated.

Jan

 9 
 on: October 26, 2009, 08:58:34 AM 
Started by Gus - Last post by Rod Johnson
Darrin:
You would need to first drill the bottom of each block and block joint with a 3/8” diam. hole, then line the entire floor and up the walls 1.5 blocks high with the dimpled air gap membrane. There needs to be a standard sump system installed and then 2.5 – 3” of new 25mpa concrete poured over the membrane. This system has always worked very well in the circumstances you have described.
If you provide some pictures and dimensions I can give a budget quote.

 10 
 on: October 24, 2009, 05:15:27 PM 
Started by Gus - Last post by Gus
Good afternoon, I have come across your method of fixing water issues in crawl spaces and am very interested in the idea. I have a block wall foundation in my crawl space and because of the amount of water that flows down my back hill towards my house if created a water issue ONLY in the  winter when the ground is frozen and we have a big rain and the water doesn’t get absorbed. My crawl space is block wall but the floor that was poured is only a skim coat (1963 construction) and it seams that the floor is always damp under something you place on the floor. My skim coat floor about 1 inch was poured even with the footing instead of pouring it on top. With your method do you use the black outside dimpled wall backfill protection roll sheeting on the inside walls and what would you do to stop the floor from being damp, would you have to pour another concrete slab over the skim coat? I think I will still have a damp floor because there is no insulating factor in the floor?

 


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