Johnson Group Contracting
December 10, 2018, 10:45:55 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: ATTENTION! - REGISTRATION HAS BEEN DISABLED!

We are getting 15,000 hack attempts per month, we have turned off registration of new members until new code is available to better protect our sites...

Welcome to the Leak-Proof.com Forums produced by Johnson Group Contracting...     
 Please post your projects or thoughts.

You will need to be registered in, to view and post on this site properly.

ATTACHMENTS: Image attachments will be displayed under your posts if you include them (we like pictures, but please size them before posting!).
You must log in with a user name to post attachments.

(Cookies need to be enabled for this site so you can navigate properly.)
Privacy: We have no interest in your personal information, any information that is recorded is for the function of the Forums only and will not be shared with anyone.

To visit the Contracting Website - Click Banner a top of page-

Our Corporate Website can be found at http://www.johnsongrouponlineinc.com
 
  Home Help Search Login Register  
  Show Posts
Pages: [1]
1  Crack Repair / Methods / Re: Leakage between Garage Floor on: February 21, 2012, 11:31:21 AM
Anytime water is coming up through a joint or crack, there must be a drainage system installed under the floor. It will not be possible to "seal" the water out with any type a product.
2  Wet Basements / Leak symptoms and solutions. / Re: wet floor and leaks between block foundation on: October 26, 2009, 08:58:34 AM
Darrin:
You would need to first drill the bottom of each block and block joint with a 3/8” diam. hole, then line the entire floor and up the walls 1.5 blocks high with the dimpled air gap membrane. There needs to be a standard sump system installed and then 2.5 – 3” of new 25mpa concrete poured over the membrane. This system has always worked very well in the circumstances you have described.
If you provide some pictures and dimensions I can give a budget quote.
3  Crack Repair / Concrete Repair Questions / Re: Grease Gun problem on: April 21, 2009, 09:59:28 AM
The moisture from the flushing the day before will be sufficient to induce a reaction from the grout.
4  Wet Basements / Leak symptoms and solutions. / Re: What Should I do? on: April 16, 2009, 12:03:38 PM
First you can adjust the grade of the yard to divert the flow away from the building. Most warranties are void if that isn't corrected.

For the well, we usually do the following:

  • Get ALL Line Locates done and have them at the work site before you dig. This is the law in Ontario, Canada. (Free)
  • Dig around the well and pull it.
  • Dig right down to the weeping tile.
  • Cut open the tile or remove the existing "tee".
    Use a very strong shop vac with a large diameter suction pipe to remove debris from the weeping tile.
    It will surely be plugged up. Flush out the rest of the tile to the sump liner, and make sure the tile drains.
  • Reinstall the "tee", but this time install a .5"x.5" corrosion proof screen/mesh on the top opening of the "tee". (Home Depot)
  • Then attach the upright 4" (non-perforated) Big "O" pipe that will be the drain for the window well.
  • Wrap the joint with Terrafix 240R geotextile( http://www.terrafixgeo.com/content/?id=38 ). This is a felt type filter fabric used around construction sites. Not the shiny one.
  • Backfill up the outside of the vertical pipe until you get to where the bottom of the well is best located. Compact this soil as you back fill.
  • Now install a round plastic drain cap over the end of the vertical pipe to keep out debris. You can also just use bag until it is ready for final cutting to the right elevation.
  • Now place the window well in the hole and wrap the outside and bottom with one piece of the geotextile. bring the fabric around the attachment flanges on either side and insert your fasteners through the fabric and into the wall. Secure fasteners. The geotextile should now be held in place and cover the bottom of the well.
  • Cut out a hole smaller than the drain pipe and push the end of the pipe through the hole. It should be snug around the pipe now.
  • Cut / trim the pipe to the right elevation and secure the drain cap (Home Depot has them, there white here in Canada).
  • Now put a couple of inches of clear stone on top of the fabric to make it look nice. DO NOT cover the drain cap.
  • Ensure the ground slopes away from the window well.
  • YOU MUST inspect and clear away any leaf debris in the fall which may cover the drain cap.
    The fabric is not there to aid in drainage, it is there to prevent soil from coming into the well and down the drain pipe which will plug it.
And there you have it.  Grin

The charge out rate for this operation is $1,250.00
5  Products sold at Leak-Proof.com (coming soon) / Products you would like to see here. / Re: Endur O Seal / HydraSeal? on: December 30, 2008, 09:06:52 PM
If you were trying to hold water, you can create a liner. If you want to hold water back, all that is needed is one pin hole and the seal has failed. There are some products (urethane) that claim to penetrate the concrete and cracks to create a "complete" seal from the top side of the floor, but I have not reviewed their data as of yet. (I think it is called SaniTread.)

Cracks tend to "wick" moisture upwards. Tight cracks do this well, like a pipette in science class.
We sell a penetrating epoxy in our online store that will more or less "seal" tight cracks. If you didn't wash the sides of the the trench (broken faces) with a hose prior to pouring the new concrete, they will be harder to "seal". I wouldn't put a warranty on the sealing of a floor cracks to be water tight with the products available to us right now.
6  Products sold at Leak-Proof.com (coming soon) / Products you would like to see here. / Re: Endur O Seal / HydraSeal? on: December 30, 2008, 05:15:01 PM
The topic is very technical, but here is my response.

This product will likely do everything it says it will. It is the assumed part that will hurt people.
no product will take the place of a properly functioning drainage system. The hole a house is sitting in needs to be drained or it fills with water. The product does not seal cracks and doesn't seal the joints where floor and wall meets. It isn't designed for it. It is designed to prevent moisture from passing through the pours of the concrete into the house which is a good thing.

People might assume it will turn their basement or house into a boat. This is not going to happen unless it was designed to be water tight by an engineer. Some structures are designed and built that way with the use use specialized underslab membranes etc. When you allow water pressure to build under a basement floor, the floor can actually be jacked up. I have seen this happen.

So to sum up, all foundations need a fully functioning perimeter drainage system as a starting point. Sealing out moisture/vapour is a good second course of action but will never replace the basics.
Oh, and the water should always be collected at the lowest level possible, the level of the bottom of the footing, but not below it. (except when the footing is excessively low). Any system that collects water at the same level of the floor is a poor substitute for a perimeter drainage system. But there I go off topic...
7  General Question and Answer / Any topic that doesn't fit anywhere else. / Re: Wet basement Floor on: December 30, 2008, 04:58:59 PM
Franko:

Sounds like the drainage system (weeping tiles) are not functioning fully and water is building up under the floor. You either need to replace the existing tiles on the exterior or do the Interior Weeping Tile proceedure. No sealing treatment will work. Sorry about that.
We will be offering a new service this summer that will flush out existing tile systems. THough it will need to be done every 4 years to keep them clear.

Rod
8  Crack Repair / Concrete Repair Questions / Re: Grease Gun problem on: October 20, 2008, 03:25:53 PM
The problem must be with the grease gun. Try replacing it with a new one (Lever gun) but get a different brand, they are not created equally. The flushing with water should be done using a pump up garden sprayer fitted with a 1/4" plastic or metal (brake line works) wand to remove the drilling dust from the drill holes. This will introduce enough moisture into the crack to set off the grout.
Pages: [1]

We sell injection grouting products in our online shop!
See it at http://leak-proof.com/catalog

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Copyright Johnson Group Online Inc. 2009
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
services
services